Free delivery on orders over £80Moving On Up: Six Of The Best Multi-Pitch Routes In The UK
We’re fortunate to have a variety of rock types and route lengths crammed into our modestly-sized island. Natalie Berry picks six of the best multi-pitch ascents.
Taking your climbing skills to the next level by tackling multi-pitch routes is a satisfying – if occasionally humbling – experience. The ropework, gear and energy-level management can be daunting and faff-tastic. But once you get into the rhythm of swinging leads and reaching new heights, there’s no greater reward than topping-out after pitching your way up a long and adventurous route.
Start off simple and choose two-pitch routes to test your belay-building and rope skills before working your way up to longer routes, where efficiency is key for saving time and energy. Hiring an instructor to teach or help you to brush up on your anchors and abseiling safety can be a worthwhile investment to prevent any epics on your first multi-pitch adventure. Here is a selection of six of the best routes from across the country, taking in different landscapes and showcasing the UK’s geological diversity.
VALKYRIE VS 4C
THE ROACHES PEAK DISTRICT, ENGLAND
Described in guidebooks as ‘perhaps the archetypal gritstone classic’, this 40m two-pitch route is one of few multi-pitch lines on grit. Although diminutive in stature compared to others on this list, Valkyrie is a memorable outing thanks to its meandering line, but it also boasts plentiful belay-building options on a good stance with jammed blocks.
The sensational second pitch is an airy traverse on good holds which reaches a slabby face climb around the arête to finish. It’s a challenge for whoever’s leading it, and can be equally exciting for the second to follow.
LITTLE CHAMONIX VD
SHEPHERD’S CRAG, LAKE DISTRICT, ENGLAND
This 70m, four-pitch classic feels like a mini Alpine adventure (hence the name). Each pitch varies in style, with corners, slabs, arêtes and a headwall to negotiate. The memorable third pitch involves a bum-slide down a ramp, while the more exposed top pitch is a series of cracks and flakes leading up a gently overhanging wall.
Little Chamonix is one of the most popular multi-pitch lines in the UK, because it’s pretty accessible, and not particularly difficult. If you’re feeling adventurous, a traditional challenge involves climbing it while wearing boxing gloves and roller skates!
GROOVED ARÊTE, EAST FACE TRYFAN HVD 4A
SNOWDONIA, WALES
A sustained slab taking in 230m of climbing over eight pitches, just a stone’s throw from the Gwern Gof campsite in the Ogwen Valley. The famous Knight’s Move pitch – which leads upwards and then rightwards, mimicking the chess piece’s movement – is the pick of the bunch, but none of the climbing is particularly tricky, and all the pitches are punctuated with easy-to-find belay stances.
Due to its popularity, the route is a little polished in places, but the high number of ascents speaks to its quality and classic status.
A DREAM OF WHITE HORSES HVS 4C
ANGLESEY, WALES
A ‘dream’ route on many a tick list. This four-pitch, 140m sea cliff outing is a more committed option for when you’ve consolidated your belay-building skills. It requires equally-matched partners to complete the exposed traverse on the last pitch, where a fall would leave you hanging in space. (My advice is to bring a Prusik and learn how to use it!).
A 60m abseil brings you to the foot of the Wen Slab from where the line follows a leftwards rising traverse before that breathtaking final pitch. Although the climbing is low in difficulty, the line’s situation gives it an adventurous feel.
ARDVERIKIE WALL HS 4B
BINNEIN SHUAS, HIGHLANDS, SCOTLAND
Photo Credit: Richard Webb / Ardverikie Wall /
TOWER RIDGE D
BEN NEVIS, HIGHLANDS, SCOTLAND
Photo Credit: Munrogue / CC BY 3.0
The most famous ridge on Britain’s highest peak. Tower Ridge is low in difficulty – it’s really a scramble with a handful of more technical roped climbing pitches – but requires a head for heights, a stomach for exposure and solid mental and physical endurance to negotiate its 600m-long spine. An uphill slog to the CIC Hut brings you to the start of the ridge, where the Great Tower looms ahead. Tower Gap provides a heart-racing downclimb and is arguably the line’s most memorable feature. This grand day out is popular in both summer and winter - but if conditions are good, expect to meet other teams and be patient.
