How To Choose Mountaineering Boots

Mountaineering is a gear-heavy activity. It is vital to be ready with the right equipment and know how to use it.

One of the most valuable pieces of kit for mountaineering is your boots. They are the foundation of your kit and what you will be relying on with every step.

Once you have sorted your boots, you can then look into getting the right crampons.

Key things to consider when buying mountaineering boots:

• What boot rating you need: B ratings show if a boot is suitable for different winter terrains. They rank from B0 (not for use with crampons) to B3. B3 are the stiffest mountaineering boots with crampon welts at the heel and toe.
• What boot style you need: Different types of mountaineering boots offer different levels of insulation and protection. This depends on the type of conditions you will be climbing in.
• Personal aspirations, abilities and limitations that could make an impact on your plans.
• New technology may require you to reconsider boot ratings and styles.

Boot Rating (B)

B0 Boots

B0 boots are more flexible in the soles and uppers. They are comfy out of the box and ideal for general hillwalking below the snow line. Even with modern, flexible linking bars, crampons can't flex as much as these boots. This flexing difference puts undue pressure on the binding. It can cause a crampon to pull loose and have disastrous results. You may find that the crampon straps dig in through the fabrics and cause discomfort. You should avoid B0 rated boots if the use of crampons is necessary.

B1 Boots

B1 rated boots are all-round walking boots. Built for all seasons, long mountain days, and scrambles. They also work for less technical winter hill walking. They usually have a stiffened midsole and leather or fabric uppers. They are often supported by a large rubber rand or synthetic leather reinforcements. Combine only with C1 strap-on crampons that offer the best flex. A B1/C1 combination will be adequate for many UK winter fell walks and gentle snow plods.

B2 Boots

The best bet for regular winter hill walkers tackling long days in snowy conditions. Both midsoles and uppers will be stiff and supportive. But, they will have just enough flex to sustain regular walking. Thicker uppers lend slightly more warmth. B2 boots feature a heel ledge for a C2 crampon. Suitable for winter Munros, low or mid-grade winter climbs and summer hikes.

B3 Boots

Designed for full-on mountaineering, mixed and ice climbing. B3 boots have the stiffest soles and uppers available. They give solid side support for front pointing, step-kicking, and traversing on steep terrain. This category includes high altitude double boots and lighter technical climbing models. Heel and toe welts allow the fitting of C3 crampons. They use the easy step-in system of heel clip and toe bar.

Boot Style

Single Mountaineering Boots

Single mountaineering boots consist of a single boot without a removable liner boot.

They are lighter and have a lower profile than other styles of mountaineering boots. This sleek design is more agile. It is ideal for the approach walk and alpine style mountaineering. But, this agility comes at the cost of some insulation.

They can take longer to dry out without the removable liner. This means they aren’t well suited to multi-day trips in wet conditions where you can’t dry them out at the end of the day.

Double Mountaineering Boots

Double mountaineering boots have a structured outer boot and a removable insulated liner.

They are usually heavier and bulkier than single boots. But they offer a compromise by being warmer. They are also easier to dry in remote places by putting the inner boot in your sleeping bag to keep them warm. Even if not completely dry, they’ll be more effective at keeping your feet warm than a frozen single boot.

The weight and bulk of double boots reduce agility. This makes them too cumbersome for approaches below the snowline.

Hybrid/Integrated Gaiter Mountaineering Boots

The hybrid mountaineering boot sits between a single boot and a double boot. These are more like single boots but with the addition of an integrated gaiter. This provides extra warmth and protection in the snow. It will keep them drier than a single boot, but they're not as easy to dry as a double boot.

Things to consider

What Are Your Aspirations?

When choosing your mountaineering boots, think about what altitudes you might reach and where. Consider the weather and underfoot conditions you might encounter.

It’s also important to consider how long your approach walks might be; will these be above or below the snowline? Once above the snowline, will you spend multiple nights in the mountains? Or will they be day-long adventures where you can dry your boots before putting them on again?

Personal Abilities & Limitations

You should prioritise warmth and insulation if you struggle with cold temperatures. If you have a lingering injury, you should look for support and comfort in that area. When trying on different boots, also try with different socks and footbeds. The wrong sock can cause hot spots and irritation. Other socks might be just right.

If your plans change after a few years, you should reassess your boots. An impulsive or unrealistic decision could put you off future trips. The right boots will help you summit some of the World's most incredible peaks.

Development In Technology

Technology is ever-evolving and new tech has come to mountaineering boots in recent years. The B/C system is still the best way to think about crampon compatibility. But many new B1 and B2 boots are slightly more bendy.

New B2 boots still have a heel welt but flex like an old-school B1 boot, and B1 boots new to the market flex like a stiff B0. This reflects that some crampons now come with very flexible centre bars. They will flex with the stride more easily. The new B2s are lighter and are better for walking and scrambling. You can use a C2/C1 crampon if the centre bar is flexible enough.