Climbing Harness Buying Guide

These are the main structural elements of any harness. Traditional constructions use several bands of central webbing to provide strength. This is then surrounded by foam padding for comfort. Some harnesses use high-strength foams that act as both the padding and webbing while others just webbing without any padding.

Climbing harnesses feature one or two waistbelt buckles, which secure it above your hips. Two buckles allow you to centre the belay loop by adjusting the harness in different directions. Most harnesses feature adjustable leg loops. These are great for traditional, alpine or winter climbers as they let you adjust the fit depending on your layering system. However, many sport or performance alpine climbing harnesses use elasticated fixed-size leg loops to save weight and bulk.

This loop of webbing is the focal point when belaying your climbing partner. Its vertical orientation allows the carabiner and belay plate to move for smooth belaying. Some harnesses feature an integrated wear safety marker in the belay loop. If you begin to see this marker appearing, it means your harness should be replaced.

When attaching a rope to your harness using a figure of eight or bowline knot, you'll pass the rope end through the lower and upper tie-in points. This means that both the waistband and leg loops are independently attached to the rope. Tie-in points are generally reinforced with extra material as these are the part of the harness that receives the most wear.

Strips of elastic webbing or cord connect the two leg loops to the back of the harness. Adjusting the length allows you to alter the shape and feel of the harness. The risers are often attached with a buckle, which allows the leg loops to be removed while staying tied in at the waist. This is ideal when adding or removing extra layers of legwear.

These are loops made of plastic or cord placed at intervals around the waistband. They are designed for carrying a rack of quickdraws, carabiners, protection, and slings. Most all-around or sport climbing harnesses have four loops which is sufficient for most climbing. However, a trad climbing harness may have five or more to provide space for extra gear on long routes and allow easy organisation. If you think might wearing your harness at the same time as a backpack, look for a harness with soft rear gear loops to avoid any uncomfortable spots.

Many multi-purpose climbing harnesses now include ice clipper slots. These hold special carabiners in place for easy racking of ice screws and tools.

This is a small attachment point situated at the back of the waistbelt. In unique climbing situations, they are used for trailing a rope behind you as you climb; however, they are more commonly used for hanging a chalk bag or belay device from when not in use.

All-round harnesses are usually midweight and durable with good support and breathability. These typically feature adjustable leg loops for four-season climbing. There are usually four gear loops and a couple of ice clipper slots. They are suitable for those who climb both indoors and outdoors, as well as on rock.

In winter, foam-padded harnesses can absorb water and freeze. Specific winter harnesses often use a closed-cell foam that doesn’t absorb water. These foams are more substantial and robust but less breathable and therefore less suited for hot summer cragging. You will also get plenty of large gear loops and ice clipper slots, plus adjustable leg loops to accommodate multiple layers.

As with winter climbing, traditional climbing can involve the use of a large rack, especially for multipitch outings. This means a minimum of four gear loops and sometimes more may be required. Adjustable leg loops are useful, as are rear haul loops.

Sport climbing requires minimal hardware beyond a set of quickdraws. Saving weight can also be crucial in order to maintain energy. Sport climbing harnesses strip back the excess to reduce weight and retain freedom of movement. They will often have fixed leg loops, very breathable mesh-based foams and could even cut gear loops back to two. Some experienced alpinists will also use these harnesses to benefit from the weight reduction.

Designed for easy mountaineering, glacier travel and ski touring, these are generally made from webbing and feature no padding. This makes them very light, packable and good for use in poor weather. A threaded waist loop and clip buckle system leg loops allow the harness to be put on without taking your feet of the ground, great if you’re wearing crampons or skis. This kind of harness is worn over a full set of mountaineering clothing, which acts as padding.