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Headband
Should adjust easily with a wheel or click strip for a snug fit.
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Introduction
Your helmet is your first line of defence against falling rocks, dropped gear, and accidental head bumps. It’s essential not just when climbing or belaying but also when standing at the base of a cliff. This guide explains helmet constructions, fitting tips, testing standards, and how to care for your helmet so it lasts and performs when you need it most.
What types of climbing helmets are there?
1. Superlight foam helmets
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2. Combination shell/foam helmets
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3. Tough Shell with suspension cradle (traditional design)
Construction:
Thick polycarbonate shell suspended above the head by webbing straps.
Impact force is absorbed by shell deformation and cradle movement.
Pros:
Very durable and resistant to repeated rockfall.
Excellent crown protection, great for winter or multi-pitch trad.
Cons:
Heavy (around 450g).
Less effective for side impacts.
Minimal ventilation and reduced comfort in warm weather.
Rarely sold today – replaced by hybrid designs (e.g., Petzl Ecrin Roc was the last widely popular model).
How should a helmet fit?
A good fit is crucial for safety and comfort.
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Retention system checklist
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Testing criteria
What safety standards do helmets need to meet?
All climbing helmets must pass rigorous testing before they hit the market.
Certification bodies: CEN (European Committee for Standardisation) – EN-12492 standard.
UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) – UIAA-106 standard.
Impact tests: A blunt 5 kg weight is dropped from 2 m onto the helmet.
Side, front, and rear impacts are also tested.
The force transmitted to the head form must not exceed:
10 kN for EN certification.
8 kN for UIAA certification (stricter).
Penetration test: A cone-shaped 3 kg weight is dropped from 1 m.
The tip must not penetrate the helmet or touch the head form.
Retention system tests: Chin straps must withstand 500 Newtons without breaking or stretching more than 25 mm.
Helmets are tested for slippage to ensure they do not pivot off the head under upward force.
Caring for helmets
How do you look after a climbing helmet?
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How long does a helmet last?
Typical lifespan: 3–10 years, depending on material and use.
Foam helmets generally have shorter lifespans due to material degradation.
Most manufacturers provide specific guidance – always follow their recommendations.
Climbing helmet picks
Choosing the right climbing helmet means balancing weight, durability, comfort, and price. A well-fitting helmet that suits your style of climbing can last for years if properly cared for. Always check for damage, replace after impacts, and remember: the better you look after your helmet, the better it will look after you. Visit your closest store if you have any questions, and our experienced staff will be able to find the best climbing helmet for you.
More guides
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