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A Bike And Bivvy: Cycling Across Wales

2 March 2021

Words & Photos: Philippa Cox

When Philippa Cox isn’t creating life-changing partnerships to support the fantastic work of the Youth Adventure Trust she can be found on her bike.

In 2016 she packed her panniers and set off for a 3.5 month epic 5,000 mile bike journey from Nordkapp, the most northern point of Norway, to Tarifa, the southernmost point of Spain for her solo Cycling Odyssey and raised nearly £6000 for Youth Adventure Trust in the process. Listen to her talk about this adventure on the Tough Girl Podcast.

So it's fair to say Philippa has got a few bike tours under her belt and in 2018 she wanted to do a ride a little closer to home.

Cycling Across Barmouth Estuary

It seemed obvious that the next ride on the list should be one that was right on my doorstep. The Lon Las Cymru (also known as 'Wales’ green lane) is a 250-mile marked route that meanders its way the full length of Wales through two stunning but lung-busting national parks – Snowdonia and the Brecon Beacons.

We took the train from Newport to Holyhead so that we could cycle 'home' to Bristol. We started at Holyhead and finished at Chepstow before completing the last few miles across the Severn Bridge. Easy to follow red stickers with the number 8 route meant that navigation was kept to a minimum as we were directed down minor roads, old railway paths, sheep and forestry tracks, and along ancient coach roads. The spectacular and wild Welsh landscape was our oyster and certainly did not disappoint. The route passes through every type of terrain and although some of the hills are hard on the legs, the vistas at the top are worth every hard-won turn of the wheel. Gospel Pass is the highest road pass in Wales and the unadulterated joy of seeing the landscape of the Black Mountains unfold as you descend can only be described as sheer happiness.

The joy of the open road is not only about the sense of freedom it gives you. There is nothing more satisfying than knowing that you can be completely self-reliant with the bare minimum. With just a bivvy bag for cover and a portable stove, there are no limits to where you can call your home for the night. Sleeping under the stars and waking up to the dawn chorus with a view are simple pleasures that can’t be beaten. Our 'room with a view' sleep spots varied from a hidden shelter by the side of the Barmouth Estuary, to fields overlooking mountains scattered with hardy Welsh sheep, and after a particularly exhausting day the refreshing waters of the River Usk at dusk - a perfect tonic for tired limbs.

River usk at dusk

Where to sleep was possibly some of the biggest decisions on the trip, for example, one night we weighed up the pros and cons of sleeping in a field where there were cattle. In the end, we didn’t risk it for fear of being trodden on in the night!

There are always plenty of reasons not to embark on adventure likes this – time, fitness, weather, the fear of failure and so on - and all of these small fears can easily build up into big reasons that stop you. However, adopting an attitude of “it’s ok, I’m ok” has generally been my way of counteracting any worries, and 99.9% of the time it IS ok. Importantly, when something doesn’t go according to plan, it can lead to more interesting memories, a story to tell, and new unexpected experiences. Adopting an attitude of “I can’t” to “I can”, and realising that in doing so you will be better equipped and more resilient next time is key.

If you have never experienced the joy of the open road on two wheels, then now is the perfect time to start planning. With a bicycle and a bivvy, you can avoid the crowds and experience true wilderness. I would advise a one night trip to begin with so that you can trial your kit, but the basic essentials include a good sleeping mat and sleeping bag, a head torch, a bivvy bag, a portable stove, a puncture repair kit… and waterproofs (it is Wales after all!). Also, make sure you have a set of warm dry clothes in a dry bag to change into at the end of your day (you can see a more detailed kit list below). Sustrans sell detailed and easy to follow maps for routes throughout the UK and a GPS device/mobile phone with a battery pack can also be useful.

The open road is there for you, start your journey and make it your adventure.