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Looking to step into alpine climbing and spend your first summer in the Alps, but not sure where to begin? The jump from UK climbing to high mountain terrain can feel large, but it is more than achievable with the right preparation. Progressing into alpine climbing comes from building a broad skill set and understanding how the mountain environment changes with altitude, weather and time of day.
Alpine climbing rewards with sun-baked glacier approaches, long days on unbroken granite, and evenings watching the sunset from the bivvy. It also brings early starts, moving over mixed ground, and managing hazards that shift throughout the day. Strong skills and clear planning are the foundation of a safe and enjoyable trip.
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Alpine days blend many disciplines. You might be scrambling one moment, pitching rock the next, then crossing a glacier at speed to stay ahead of the sun.
Core skills include:
Trad climbing
Moving together
Winter climbing techniques
Efficient movement on snow and ice and crevasse rescue
Bivving (if not staying in huts)
Route planning and risk management.
You can build up your skills at home in the UK.
Get confident trad climbing
This teaches gear placement, anchor building and confident movement on varied rock. You’ll want to be able to move efficiently and quickly on multipitch routes and get comfortable climbing with a backpack on.
Spend time in Scotland in winter
Focus on using crampons and ice axes, front pointing, mixed climbing and judging snow conditions.
Build up your physical fitness
Take some time to build up your fitness and conditioning to deal with longer days, more heat and being at a higher altitude.
'It's worth taking some time to work on your fitness before you head out, days can be long, heat is tiring and altitude takes time to adjust to. Conditioning and some big days in the hills or on rock in the run up will pay dividends, not just more evenings at the crag!” - Oscar, Product copywriter
Get some bivvy practice in
If you're not planning on staying in huts, make sure you are comfortable with bivvying, particularly in poor conditions.
Learn about glacier travel and crevasse rescue
A course is the fastest way to gain safe, structured knowledge. Practice ropework, prusiking, hauling systems and walking in a roped team.
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• Alpine Mountaineering by Bruce Goodlad. This book offers clear instruction on movement, ropework and decision making.
• BMC Alpine Essentials video. A solid visual guide to fundamental alpine techniques.
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Summer alpine climbing focuses on moving fast while staying prepared for rapid weather changes. Bring light but reliable gear that works across rock, snow and ice.
Key items include:
Set your expectations
The key to staying safe is not to expect too much from your first trip. Weather windows can be rare, so be prepared to spend a lot of time down in the valley waiting out poor weather.
"My first trip to the Alps was 2 weeks long, and we only got 4 alpine routes in. At the time, it felt frustrating, but looking back, it meant that we did some amazing routes in good conditions, and did each one feeling rested and prepared. We also got some great sport routes done down in the valley on mixed days." - Kerry, Digital Marketing Manager
Be prepared to change plans
Be prepared to change your choice of route to match the forecast, the condition of the route and how you and your partner(s) are feeling. In the hot summer of 2023, for example, many traditionally easier snowy routes were out of condition due to high rates of melt, so many climbers pivoted to rock routes.
"Take a couple of good books to read in the tent when the rain comes!" - Kerry
Expect early mornings
Most teams set off well before dawn to take advantage of firm snow and stable conditions. Most teams make use of an 'alpine start'. Setting off from the bivvy or hut well before dawn, or catching the first lift up to take advantage of firm snow and stable conditions.
Conditions shift quickly
Rockfall risk increases as the day warms, storms build faster than in the UK, and glaciers change hour by hour.
Have a strong partner or guide
Joining a club or group helps with partners and shared experience. If you do not have a suitable partner, hiring a guide is normal. A guide who also instructs will help build skills while keeping the day safe. Find a club local to you on the BMC website.
Alpine climbing demands preparation, patience and steady skill development. Build your experience at home, learn from those with more time in the mountains and approach the Alps with respect. The rewards are worth every step.
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