Climbing Harness Buying Guide

What to keep in mind

Whether you're getting your first climbing harness or need one for a specific purpose, the choices can feel endless. But once you know what to look for, choosing the right harness is straightforward. This guide takes you through the main features to keep in mind when selecting a climbing harness.

"Sometimes it can be tricky to find a harness that fits both your leg and waist measurements as they are usually just sold in a single size. If you find you're between sizes, its generally best to size up. This will then accommodate wearing more or thicker layers if needed, plus buckles can always be cinched down. You should avoid using a harness at its maximum size as this will put stress on the buckles in the event of a fall and even risk coming undone." - Tom, Email & CRM Executive

Features

Waist belt & leg loops

These are the main structural elements of any harness. Traditional constructions use several bands of central webbing to provide strength. This is then surrounded by foam padding for comfort. Some harnesses use high-strength foams that act as both the padding and webbing, while others just have webbing without any padding.

Buckles

Climbing harnesses feature one or two waistbelt buckles, which secure it above your hips. Two buckles allow you to centre the belay loop by adjusting the harness in different directions. Most harnesses feature adjustable leg loops. These are great for traditional, alpine or winter climbers as they let you adjust the fit depending on your layering system. Many sport or performance alpine climbing harnesses use elasticated fixed-size leg loops to save weight and bulk.

Belay loop

This loop of webbing is the focal point when belaying your climbing partner. Its vertical orientation allows the carabiner and belay plate to move for smooth belaying. Some harnesses feature an integrated wear safety marker in the belay loop. If you begin to see this marker appearing, it means your harness should be replaced.

Tie-in points

When attaching a rope to your harness using a figure of eight or bowline knot, you'll pass the rope end through the lower and upper tie-in points. This means that both the waistband and leg loops are independently attached to the rope. Tie-in points are generally reinforced with extra material, as these are the parts of the harness that receive the most wear.

Rear risers

Strips of elastic webbing or cord connect the two leg loops to the back of the harness. Adjusting the length allows you to alter the shape and feel of the harness. The risers are often attached with a buckle, which allows the leg loops to be removed while staying tied in at the waist. This is ideal when adding or removing extra layers of legwear.

Gear loops

These are loops made of plastic or cord placed at intervals around the waistband. They are designed for carrying a rack of quickdraws, carabiners, protection, and slings. Almost all-round or sport climbing harnesses have four loops, which are sufficient for most climbing. However, a trad climbing harness may have five or more points to provide space for extra gear on long routes and allow easy organisation. If you think you might be wearing your harness at the same time as a backpack, look for a harness with soft rear gear loops to avoid any uncomfortable spots.

Ice clipper slots

Many multi-purpose climbing harnesses now include ice clipper slots. These hold special carabiners in place for easy racking of ice screws and tools.

Haul loop

This is a small attachment point situated at the back of the waistbelt. In unique climbing situations, they are used for trailing a rope behind you as you climb; however, they are more commonly used for hanging a chalk bag or belay device from when not in use.

What type of harness do I need?

It’s best to think about the type of climbing you think you will be using your new harness for. This might be a specific discipline, or if it’s your first harness and you’re not sure, it’s best to opt for something versatile.

Types of harness

All round

All-round harnesses are usually midweight and durable with good support and breathability. These typically feature adjustable leg loops for four-season climbing. There are usually four gear loops and a couple of ice clipper slots. They are suitable for those who climb both indoors and outdoors, as well as on rock.

Winter

In winter, foam-padded harnesses can absorb water and freeze. Specific winter harnesses often use a closed-cell foam that doesn’t absorb water. These foams are more substantial and robust but less breathable, so less suited for hot summer cragging. You will also get plenty of large gear loops and ice clipper slots, plus adjustable leg loops to accommodate multiple layers.

Trad

As with winter climbing, traditional climbing can involve the use of a large rack, especially for multipitch outings. This means a minimum of four gear loops and sometimes more may be required. Adjustable leg loops are useful, as are rear haul loops.

Sport

Sport climbing requires minimal hardware beyond a set of quickdraws. Saving weight can also be crucial in order to maintain energy. Sport climbing harnesses strip back the excess to reduce weight and retain freedom of movement. They will often have fixed leg loops, very breathable mesh-based foams and could even cut gear loops back to two. Some experienced alpinists will also use these harnesses to benefit from the weight reduction.

Alpine

Designed for easy mountaineering, glacier travel and ski touring, these are generally made from webbing and feature no padding. This makes them very light, packable and good for use in poor weather. A threaded waist loop and clip buckle system leg loops allow the harness to be put on without taking your feet off the ground, great if you’re wearing crampons or skis. This kind of harness is worn over a full set of mountaineering clothing, which acts as padding.

Fitting a harness

How should my climbing harness fit?

Getting the right fit may involve trying several different brands and models to see what feels best.

Consider:

What you'll be wearing your harness for, think about how many layers you will need to accommodate for

Wearing the appropriate clothing when you test harnesses should help you get the right size

If you do a bit of everything, then try and find a harness with sufficient adjustment to work over any number of layers

The right size usually has a bit of adjustability left

"Year-round climbers may find they need to size up in winter. The leg and waist loops on my summer harness are a perfect fit in the summer months, but I like a little more room when trying to get a harness on and off easily while wearing multiple layers in winter. A closed-cell foam harness in winter is also more substantial and less prone to taking on water and ice in winter." - Kerry, Digital Marketing Manager

Put on the harness

Hold the harness by the waist belt with the belay loop positioned front and centre

Check that there are no twists in the belay or leg loops

The two leg loops should hang underneath with their buckles (if any) placed towards the front outside of the thigh

The waist belt should sit snugly over the hips, at a similar height to a backpack hip belt

Tighten the waist buckle and relax or tighten the rear risers if the leg loops feel overly high or low

Then tighten any leg buckles to get a snug fit.

Always hang in store

A harness’s hanging comfort is one of the most important factors

Many stores have a suspension point where you can spend time hanging in each harness

While hanging, you should be able to stay upright easily

Check that the waist belt is supportive but doesn’t dig in and that the belay loop is centred

Try to minimise any gaps between you and the harness; there shouldn’t be more than a finger’s width

Leg loops should be comfortably snug if necessary, adjust the rear elastic risers to change the height of the leg loops.

Men's vs Women's

Women’s harnesses are shaped differently from men’s.

The waist-leg loop ratio will be smaller, and there will be a longer rise between the waist and leg loops

Those with smaller hips may find that some men’s harnesses feel too bulky and stiff, possibly digging in at the ribs

Harnesses designed for women shouldn’t cause this problem

Likewise, some women find that men’s harnesses fit better, try a few on in store and see what fits best.

Care & inspection

Keep your harness somewhere cool and dry, out of direct sunlight.

Most manufacturers provide a guide to lifespans based on different levels of use and storage. This varies between brands, so check and make a note of when you purchased your harnesses, as manufacturer dates on labels often rub off.

Frequent use and heavy falls can reduce a harness’s lifespan more quickly. It’s worth giving your harness a regular visual inspection to check for signs of wear, especially at the tie-in points, as these typically see the most wear.

Manufacturing errors do occur, and brands can issue recalls. Make sure to provide your email address when buying a harness in-store so we can get in contact if a recall is issued. The British Mountaineering Council also records recalls, so be sure to check.

Final thoughts

Head in-store to try out some different harness options to find the one that works best for you. Our experienced staff can also help guide you in the right direction.

Climbing harness picks

About the contributors

Tom Hutchins

I grew up exploring the outdoors; kayaking, biking and surfing around the South West coast. Moving to Manchester led me to the joys of climbing grit and limestone, and I haven't looked back since. I also enjoy all the hiking that the Peaks have to offer, so there's always something to do when the rock is wet.

Kerry Mellor

I have always loved being outside and since I began working in the outdoor industry as a teenager I have been trying to find as many excuses to get out in the mountains as possible. Fortunately, working at Ellis Brigham has given me plenty of opportunity to escape the office and test some awesome gear, from trail running shoes to belay devices. Most of the time I can be found kicking around on my local fells in the Lakes, but I am lucky enough to have climbed and skied in some amazing places over the years, including Morocco, Norway and the Alps.