Carabiner Buying Guide

How to choose the right carabiner

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Understanding carabiners

What carabiner shape should I choose?

What are the different gate types?

Quickdraws

Strength ratings

Carabiner picks

Final thoughts

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Carabiner Buying Guide

Understanding carabiners

Carabiners might look simple, but they’re the backbone of your climbing safety system. From clipping into protection to building anchors or belaying your partner, choosing the right carabiner is about far more than convenience – it’s about reliability when it matters most.

In this guide, we’ll answer the key questions to help you understand what to look for when buying carabiners.

Whether you’re new to climbing or fine-tuning your rack, this guide will help you pick the right kit with confidence.

What carabiner shape should I choose?

Oval

D and Offset D

HMS (pear-shaped)

What are the different gate types?

Straight Gates

A classic all-round option, commonly used for the protection end of quickdraws. Many now feature a keylock nose to prevent snagging.

Bent Gates

The curved gate makes clipping the rope faster and easier, so bent gates are usually found on the rope end of a quickdraw.

Wire Gates

Lightweight and strong, wire gates reduce the risk of gate flutter and don’t freeze in winter conditions. They are popular for trad and alpine climbing.

Screwgate

The most common locking option, ideal for belaying, rigging, and anchors. They require the user to manually screw the sleeve closed, so always double-check.

Twistlock or Auto-locking Gates

These lock automatically for added safety but can be harder to open one-handed and are usually heavier and more expensive than screwgates.

Which carabiner is best for belaying?

Choose a large HMS locking carabiner with a smooth, wide top bar for easy rope handling. Auto-locking options (such as twistlock gates) are great for extra security, but screwgate HMS models remain the most popular choice. Some belay-specific carabiners have anti-crossload designs to keep them properly aligned with your belay loop.

How many locking carabiners do I need for belay building?

For anchors, you’ll typically want several offset D screwgates to connect slings or ropes to protection. A large HMS screwgate is often used as the central point for tying everything together. It’s best to carry at least 3–4 locking carabiners on multi-pitch climbs.

What carabiners are best for racking gear?

Non-locking snapgates (wire, straight, or bent) are ideal for racking cams, nuts, and other kit. Oval wiregates are particularly good for organising nuts, as they spread evenly across the curve.

Quickdraws

What are quickdraws, and how do they work?

A quickdraw is made of two carabiners connected by a strong nylon or Dyneema sling. One carabiner clips into the protection (bolt or gear), while the other is for the rope. The rope-end carabiner is usually fixed in place with a rubber retainer, so it stays aligned for faster clipping. The sling extends the rope away from the gear to reduce rope drag and prevent gear from shifting.

What quickdraws should I use for trad climbing?

For trad routes, choose lightweight quickdraws with wiregate carabiners that won’t freeze or clog with dirt. A mix of sling lengths (10–12 cm, 15–18 cm, and a few 25 cm draws) helps manage rope drag on wandering lines. Around 10–12 quickdraws are enough for most pitches.

What quickdraws should I use for sport climbing?

Sport draws are beefier to handle repeated falls and abuse. Look for solid-gate carabiners (straight gate for bolts, bent gate for rope) and wider slings that are easier to grab when working a route. For most routes, 10–12 draws will do, but long sport pitches may need 15 or more. Check your guidebook for bolt counts.

How are carabiners made?

Strength ratings

How strong are carabiners?

Every certified carabiner is marked with three strength ratings, measured in kiloNewtons (kN):

Major Axis: The maximum strength along the spine with the gate closed (often around 20–25 kN).

Minor Axis: Strength across the gate (usually 6–8 kN).

Gate Open: Strength along the spine with the gate open (often 7–10 kN).

So, 25 kN is equivalent to holding a static load of about 2.5 metric tons.

What else should I consider when choosing a carabiner?

Check rope and gear compatibility: Larger radiuses reduce wear on ropes and slings.

Keep them clean: Grit and corrosion reduce performance.

Know when to retire gear: Deep grooves, sharp edges, or gate failures mean it’s time to replace the carabiner.

Carabiner picks

Final thoughts

Choosing the right carabiner depends on how and where you climb, but starting with a mix of HMS, offset D, and wire-gate designs will cover most needs.

Still unsure? Visit your nearest store, where our staff can show you the differences and help you build the perfect rack.

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