climber holding climbing rope with belay device attached

Belay Device Buying Guide

Belay device considerations

What are the main types of belay devices?

Assisted braking devices

Active vs passive ABDs

Belay assists

Figure 8 belay devices

What to consider

Final thoughts

About the contributors

More guides

Belay device considerations

Whether you're climbing indoors or heading outside, a belay device is a must-have bit of kit. It's what controls the rope while you belay or abseil—and more importantly, it's what catches a fall.

This guide covers the main types of belay devices, how they work, and which one might be right for you.

What are the main types of belay devices?

What is a Tubular Belay Device?

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Assisted braking devices

What is an Assisted Braking Device (ABD)?

Assisted braking devices offer more security by helping to catch falls. There are two main types: active and passive.

"If you are thinking of making the move to an assisted device or already use a Gri-Gri, the Neox is worth a look. A pulley inside makes paying out much smoother, giving you the ease of a traditional belay device with the same camming assist as the Gri-Gri. For anyone frustrated by the 'jamming' effect of a Gri-Gri, this is something of a revolution." - Tom, Email & CRM Executive

Active vs passive ABDs

Passive ABDs

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Belay assists

What is a Belay assist device?

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Figure 8 belay devices

What is a Figure 8 Device?

These are mostly used for abseiling, not every day belaying.

-Handles thick ropes and gloves well

-Great at dissipating heat during descents

-Offers a smooth abseil

Not ideal for: regular belaying—it can twist the rope and doesn’t provide much control.

Best for: abseiling and rescue scenarios.

What to consider

What should you consider before buying?

climbing ropes
Belay sets Image

Belay sets

These are great for beginners. You’ll get a belay device and matched carabiner at a lower price—and you know they’re compatible.

Weight differences between climbing partners Image

Weight differences between climbing partners

If your climber is much heavier than you, consider using a braking resistor like the Edelrid Ohm II. It clips into the first bolt and increases friction, giving you more control during a fall or lower.

FAQs

Can I use a figure 8 for belaying at the gym

Technically yes, but it’s not recommended. Tubular or ABD devices offer better control.

Is an assisted-braking device safer?

Yes, when used correctly. But you still need to always maintain a brake hand on the rope.

Do I need a new device for half or twin ropes?

Yes—make sure your belay device is rated for the rope type and number of strands. 

Final thoughts

If you’re unsure which belay device to choose, we offer in-store appointments. Our team can help you choose the right gear and ensure you’re fully prepared for your next climb


About the contributors

Image of Tom Hutchins

Tom Hutchins

I grew up exploring the outdoors; kayaking, biking and surfing around the South West coast. Moving to Manchester led me to the joys of climbing grit and limestone, and I haven't looked back since. I also enjoy all the hiking that the Peaks have to offer, so there's always something to do when the rock is wet.

Image of Kerry Mellor

Kerry Mellor

I have always loved being outside and since I began working in the outdoor industry as a teenager I have been trying to find as many excuses to get out in the mountains as possible. Fortunately, working at Ellis Brigham has given me plenty of opportunity to escape the office and test some awesome gear, from trail running shoes to belay devices. Most of the time I can be found kicking around on my local fells in the Lakes, but I am lucky enough to have climbed and skied in some amazing places over the years, including Morocco, Norway and the Alps.

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