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Climbing Ropes Buying Guide
Introduction
Whether you're climbing indoors or heading outside, a belay device is a must-have bit of kit. It's what controls the rope while you belay or abseil—and more importantly, it's what catches a fall.
This guide covers the main types of belay devices, how they work, and which one might be right for you.
What are the main types of belay devices?
What is a Tubular Belay Device?
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Assisted braking devices
What is an Assisted Braking Device (ABD)?
Assisted braking devices offer more security by helping to catch falls. There are two main types: active and passive.
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These have moving parts (like cams) that clamp the rope during a fall.
-Helps hold the rope during rests and falls
-Reduces strain on your brake hand
-Ideal for top-roping and projecting
-Only works with single ropes
-Slightly heavier and more expensive
Examples: Petzl GriGri
Figure 8 belay devices
What is a Figure 8 Device?
These are mostly used for abseiling, not every day belaying.
-Handles thick ropes and gloves well
-Great at dissipating heat during descents
-Offers a smooth abseil
Not ideal for: regular belaying—it can twist the rope and doesn’t provide much control.
Best for: abseiling and rescue scenarios.
What to consider
What should you consider before buying?
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FAQs
Can I use a figure 8 for belaying at the gym
Technically yes, but it’s not recommended. Tubular or ABD devices offer better control.
Is an assisted-braking device safer?
Yes, when used correctly. But you still need to always maintain a brake hand on the rope.
Do I need a new device for half or twin ropes?
Yes—make sure your belay device is rated for the rope type and number of strands.
More guides
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