Mammut Taiss Pro Belay In Hooded Jacket Review

Our verdict

Extra-warm, durable down belay jacket

Mammut's Taiss Pro Belay IN jacket provides serious warmth when thrown on at the coldest belays. To see how it performs in real conditions, our Covent Garden store manager Alex tested the jacket during a full week of winter climbing on Ben Nevis in Scotland. Andi, our Aviemore store manager, and Bella from the Covent Garden store also tested the Taiss jacket out whilst dog walking in Epping Forest and commuting to work. The New Year kicked off with some favourable ski touring conditions in the Cairngorms, so Andi took full advantage of the fresh snow.

About the testers

Covent Garden store manager

Alex

I’ve loved outdoor activities since I was a child, but over the past 20 years, it’s become a lot more serious. I go hiking two to three times a year, either hut-to-hut or camping. I also add two climbing trips to the mix: one in winter for ice climbing and another in summer for mountaineering. On my days off, I often go bikepacking or mountain biking. I spent a week in Scotland winter climbing on Ben Nevis. We slept 5 nights in the CiC hut, climbing various routes on the North Face of Ben. Terrain varied from mixed to snow gullies and ice. The weather was also mixed with first few days being very snowy but not too cold and ending the trip with gale force winds and -13C chill. 

Aviemore store manager

Andi

My love of the outdoors is the reason I moved to the Scottish Highlands.  Even if the weather isn't great, there is something so calming about being out in the elements. During the winter, my main activity is skiing/ski touring. One of the days I tested the jacket, we went up for a bit of ski touring, not too far from Cairngorm Mountain Resort as visibility was very poor. By the time we were transitioning at Marquis Well, wind had picked up, and it was -20 degrees in wind chill. 

Covent Garden Store

Bella

I’m happiest when spending time outdoors, especially wild camping in the Peak District or the Lake District. I go hiking or long-distance trekking at least twice a year, and camping has always been my domain from a young age. Family trips to the seaside, weekends away, and time spent with friends almost always involved sleeping in a tent. On quieter days, you’ll usually find me walking my dog, Louie, through the forest, or wandering around cities and discovering new spots.

Initial thoughts

Alex: At first, I was sceptical about using a down jacket in Scotland. It also looked bulky and heavy. Once I tried the product around the house, I was pleasantly surprised about how light and unrestrictive it felt. It is as light as my synthetic jacket but warmer.

Andi: I thought the jacket was super light. Maybe a bit too light even for what I wanted to use it for. Once I tried it, it felt really warm instantly with plenty of room for movement. I was very pleased with how it fitted over my shell and gloves with ease.

Bella: I’ve always been a huge fan of the Mammut brand, so I was excited to test this jacket while walking my dog, Louie, and commuting to work. While the colour may not be ideal for the hills, it’s perfect for everyday city life. The jacket was exceptional at keeping me warm and comfortable, and it gave me real peace of mind when leaving work in pouring rain- keeping me completely dry and drying again in no time at all.

Fit

Performance

Alex: The jacket really exceeded expectations. It was lighter and more packable than it looked like in the shop and the DryDown did a great job of keeping the moisture away. It did a great job trapping all the heat and keeping me toasty while waiting for my partner to climb. After a day of climbing, it was nice to have a big warm jacket over a t-shirt without having to wear multiple layers underneath.

Bella: The jacket is defiantly the best warmth to weight ratio I own. It did a fantastic job at keeping me warm and dry but also convenient when I don’t need to wear as it packs down into its own pocket and I can store it easily in my bag.

Features

Bella: The insulation has been fantastic and gives real peace of mind thanks to the combination of materials: down through the core and back for warmth, with synthetic insulation in the arms, shoulders, and hood where moisture is more likely.

Final thoughts

Alex: This jacket really impressed me with how warm it is for how light it feels. It worked faultlessly in proper Scottish winter conditions and will become my go-to for future trips. Ideal for winter climbers and mountaineers who need a proper warm belay jacket in cold conditions. It’s also great for anyone spending lots of time standing still in the cold. Warm enough to work well as an everyday winter jacket too.

It has excellent warmth for the weight thanks to the high-quality down and baffle design. Really useful pocket layout that’s easy to use with gloves. The mix of down and synthetic insulation makes it feel practical and well thought through.

Andi: I was after something lightweight, no bulk, that keeps me warm in the often-harsh Scottish conditions. So far, this jacket has ticked all those boxes.

Bella: Overall, it’s a great option if you want one jacket that works just as well outdoors as it does day to day. It’s ideal for hiking and hillwalking, but it also suits more active days where you want something breathable and easy to layer.

At a glance

850 fill down insulation

High-quality 850 fill down insulation guarantees warmth, while remaining lightweight and packable. The Nikwax hydrophobic treatment helps the down retain loft when wet and improves drying times.

Helmet compatible hood

The hood is shaped for an optimal fit over a climbing helmet. You can adjust the hood at the rear to keep it secure when worn without one.

Two-way front zip

You can unzip the jacket from the bottom to increase ventilation, provide clear access to your harness belay loop, or improve comfort when you sit down.

Harness compatible hand pockets

Positioned out of the way of a harness or backpack hip belt, these zipped pockets keep your small items secure and accessible.

Internal drop pockets

Internal Powermesh drop pockets are ideal for keeping things close to hand and warm, such as gloves or climbing shoes.