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Interview with Morag Skelton
Some people move countries for work. Others for family. Masa Sakano came to Scotland for the iced gullies and wild, unforgiving ridges of its winter mountains. Originally from Japan, Masa first arrived in the UK in 2001 and eventually settled in the Highlands in 2013. His decision to relocate was driven by a love for the very particular kind of adventure found in Scottish winter climbing.
“There’s not quite so much winter climbing in England,” he explains during a Zoom call. “So when I lost my job down south, I didn’t see a reason to stay. I wanted to live where the mountains were.”
Since then, Masa has become a quietly respected figure in the close-knit Scottish climbing community and is one of “very few” Japanese or East Asian climbers regularly putting up winter routes in the Highlands. It’s this uncommon story that caught the attention of filmmaker Rachel Sarah, who has spent the past year documenting Masa’s life for a short film, shot between Scotland and Japan.
While Masa began climbing just a year before he left Japan, it’s here in the UK that his skills and philosophies have taken shape. In summer, he favours traditional climbing. In winter, it’s all about the mixed conditions and unpredictability that make Scottish mountaineering so unique. “In other places, like North America or the Alps, sometimes climbing can feel more ‘safe.’ There are often bolts. Stable conditions. Sometimes the routes are prepared for you,” he says. “But to me, adventure means doing things by yourself, taking responsibility. That’s why the climbing ethics in Britain really speak to me.”
Despite his modesty, Masa has made his mark. Among his proudest moments is a first ascent on the north face of Beinn Chùirn, a face that had never seen a recorded climb until he explored a line during a stormy, high-avalanche-risk season. “It wasn’t the hardest climb,” he admits, “but it took imagination. And now others have repeated the route, so it feels like a contribution to the climbing community."
It’s this spirit – quiet, self-motivated, and rooted in exploration – that defines Masa’s approach. He’s not chasing records or recognition. He’s just climbing the way he believes it should be done. “I like what Alex MacIntyre once said: ‘Climbing becomes passion, but style becomes obsession.’ That’s it for me. It’s not about getting to the top of Everest. It’s about how you get there. Who you are when you do it.”
Though his roots are far from the Highlands, Masa doesn’t feel like an outsider. “That’s one of the things I love most about Scotland. People treat me like any other climber. I’m just part of the scene.”
Still, he misses some things about Japan – hot springs, especially. “It would be amazing to finish a day in Glencoe with a soak in a natural onsen,” he laughs. “But I’ve adjusted. This is home now.”
And does he have plans for more new routes? Of course. He smiles: “Yes – but I don’t have to share where they are, do I?”