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Andy, Warehouse Despatch Team
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Ice Climbing in Cogne, Italy
Andy from our warehouse team spent a week chasing frozen waterfalls in Italy
Andy from our warehouse team headed to Cogne, Italy for a week of winter ice climbing. Swapping long Scottish walk-ins and marginal conditions for frozen waterfalls, clear skies, and continental-scale routes, he spent seven days climbing classic lines in one of Europe’s most famous ice climbing valleys.
Introduction to winter obsession
Winter climbing has a way of taking over. Long Scottish days on ephemeral ice, frozen gullies, and storm-bound ridges build skill and resilience, but they also leave you exhausted. This trip to Cogne was meant to be different. Still ice climbing, but with sun, stable weather, and one of the best venues in Europe.
Why Cogne is a world class Ice climbing destination
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From Scotland to continental ice
This was not my first visit, but it was the first time I arrived confident rather than terrified. Previous trips had been about survival and following others. This time, the aim was to lead, make decisions, and climb harder ice after years of experience gained in Scotland.
That confidence was tested immediately. The planned objective had collapsed before we arrived. In Cogne, ice is dynamic and flexibility matters. Plan B started fast.
Lillaz Cascade and the reality of popular ice
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Big days and Scottish-style gullies
The next objective was Lillaz Gully, a long multi-pitch route described as reminiscent of classic Scottish gullies. Early starts, headtorches, and a long approach delivered us to sustained WI4 terrain.
Steep ice, burning calves, and a committing mixed pitch high on the route demanded focus. Protection was sparse, the ice heavily scarred, and retreat unrealistic. It was serious, absorbing climbing and one of the highlights of the trip.
Snow, sun, and changing plans
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Rest days and ice parks
A restful morning in Cogne was welcome. Coffee, wandering, and new crampons made a difference. The Moline ice park above town offered short routes on artificially formed ice, perfect for mileage and technique.
Sharp crampons transformed confidence. Sometimes equipment really does matter.
A classic finish in the Valeille Valley
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Why ice climbing in Cogne is hard to beat
Reliable ice, short approaches, clear weather, and endless route choice make Cogne exceptional. Add Italian food, coffee, and post-climb spa sessions, and it becomes hard to compare.
Scotland builds climbers. Cogne lets them fly.
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