Ice Climbing in Cogne, Italy

Winter climbing has a way of taking over. Long Scottish days on ephemeral ice, frozen gullies, and storm-bound ridges build skill and resilience, but they also leave you exhausted. This trip to Cogne was meant to be different. Still ice climbing, but with sun, stable weather, and one of the best venues in Europe.

This was not my first visit, but it was the first time I arrived confident rather than terrified. Previous trips had been about survival and following others. This time, the aim was to lead, make decisions, and climb harder ice after years of experience gained in Scotland.

That confidence was tested immediately. The planned objective had collapsed before we arrived. In Cogne, ice is dynamic and flexibility matters. Plan B started fast. 

The next objective was Lillaz Gully, a long multi-pitch route described as reminiscent of classic Scottish gullies. Early starts, headtorches, and a long approach delivered us to sustained WI4 terrain.

Steep ice, burning calves, and a committing mixed pitch high on the route demanded focus. Protection was sparse, the ice heavily scarred, and retreat unrealistic. It was serious, absorbing climbing and one of the highlights of the trip. 

A restful morning in Cogne was welcome. Coffee, wandering, and new crampons made a difference. The Moline ice park above town offered short routes on artificially formed ice, perfect for mileage and technique.

Sharp crampons transformed confidence. Sometimes equipment really does matter. 

Reliable ice, short approaches, clear weather, and endless route choice make Cogne exceptional. Add Italian food, coffee, and post-climb spa sessions, and it becomes hard to compare.

Scotland builds climbers. Cogne lets them fly.