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Waterproof Fabrics Buying Guide

The market for waterproofs is diverse and complex. Competition revolves around breathability - a fabric's ability to let air pass through so that sweat can evaporate. The aim is to create a garment which can maintain a comfortable internal microclimate while protecting during wet weather activities.

GORE produces some of the most well-known waterproof materials. Their range includes fabrics such as GORE-TEX Pro, which gives waterproof and breathable protection in the harshest conditions, and GORE-TEX Active, which provides highly breathable and waterproof performance perfect for those moving fast and light. 

Good alternatives to GORE-TEX are also available, such as FUTURELIGHT™ from The North Face, Pertex Shield, and less expensive PU film fabrics like Patagonia’s H2No.

All the types listed here are both waterproof and breathable to varying degrees, but choosing the right waterproof clothing for you also depends on many other factors; the brand, the fit, the pockets, the hood, the colour! Knowing the main features and benefits of each different fabric is just the first step in choosing the right garment for your intended activity.

How Do Waterproof Fabrics Work?

man and woman wearing waterproofs smilingman and woman wearing waterproofs smiling

Creating a fabric that blocks rain is easy. Creating a fabric that blocks rain yet still allows your sweat to escape is much more difficult. However, all waterproof fabrics work on the same principle: diffusion. Molecules will move from areas of high concentration to areas of low concentration. Hence when you warm up and create moisture, it wants to pass through your waterproof jacket to reach the lower concentrations outside. Different waterproof materials achieve this in different ways.

ePTFE membranes with a PU coating

Traditional GORE-TEX (introduced in 1978) paved the way by using an Expanded Polytetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE) membrane containing 9 billion microscopic pores per square inch. These pores are 20,000 times smaller than a water droplet (so rain can't penetrate) but also 700 times bigger than a molecule of moisture vapour (so vapour can escape). This 'sieve' of microscopic holes is backed by an ultra-thin oleophobic polyurethane (PU) coating which prevents body oils from contaminating the membrane. The PU coating also completely blocks the wind, which is what gives a garment its windproof properties.

As you sweat, vapour condenses on the lining, passes through the polyurethane coating as a liquid, and reaches the ePTFE membrane where it evaporates out through the network of microscopic holes. It is the differential between the warm, moist internal climate and the cooler, drier external climate, that drives vapour through the fabric's pores away from your skin. So the harder you work, the warmer you get and the faster the whole process works.

ePTFE membranes without a PU coating

These fabrics all utilise an ePTFE membrane without a protective PU film (or in some cases with a PU film that encircles the pores, leaving them uncovered). Since there's no cover over the pores, the membrane is able to breathe more effectively. Fabrics like this can take air in as well as pushing moisture out. It's a two-way airflow that disperses moisture by convection (air circulation) as well as diffusion (pressure gradients).

A downside of this system is that without a PU film, the membrane may be more prone to contamination. It is possible to build an oleophobic treatment into the membrane but this may be less effective or durable than the traditional GORE-TEX method. Pores left open will breathe better but may become clogged with oils and dirt more easily, meaning you may need to wash the garment more regularly. Wearers may also experience more rapid cooling in high windchill situations, though garments will still be roughly 95% windproof.

Waterproof Constructions

Waterproof membranes or PU films are sandwiched between an outer layer (or 'face fabric') and an inner layer ('scrim') sitting next to the skin. The face fabric adds durability and carries the DWR. The scrim wicks moisture outwards and helps protect the film and membrane from contaminants. The nature of the inner layer determines whether a fabric is 3, 2.5 or 2-layer.

  • 3 Layer (e.g. GORE-TEX Pro) - outer, membrane & inner are bonded together into one flexible material
  • 2.5 Layer (e.g. GORE-TEX Paclite) - outer & membrane are bonded together with a very thin internal carbon or textured 'half layer' on the inside
  • 2-Layer (e.g. GORE-TEX Performance) - outer & membrane are bonded together, but the internal lining is a loose-hanging fabric or mesh

The Importance of Durable Water Repellency (DWR)

When water hits a brand new waterproof jacket, it will 'bead up' and run off. This is because the surface has a Durable Water Repellent (DWR) coating. A poorly-maintained jacket will often 'wet out', with water soaking into the face fabric. When this happens, the flow of moisture from within is disrupted. Vapour can't escape because it is blocked by the water droplets drenching the face fabric. Wearers may feel wet. This sensation is caused by trapped sweat building up inside the wetting-out jacket, not by any leak. The solution is often as simple as cleaning and re-proofing the fabric, using the appropriate products such as those by Grangers or Nikwax.

Green fabric with water droplets depicting a Durable Water Repellent FinishGreen fabric with water droplets depicting a Durable Water Repellent Finish

Over the years many brands have made conscious efforts to utilise more environmentally friendly, perfluorochemical-free (PFC-free) DWR treatments to help reduce the level of PFCs released into our waterways.

Seam Sealing

You can make a jacket from waterproof material, but unless you seal the seams, it will leak very quickly. Look inside a waterproof jacket, and you will see strips of tape covering the seams. This taping will not let moisture through in either direction so the more taping, the less breathable the jacket. It also stiffens the seam area. That's why Arc'teryx and others strive to reduce the number of seams and the width of the tape used. Tape is usually essential, but reducing the amount results in a lighter, more supple and more breathable jacket.

Measuring Performance

There are a variety of tests and measures used to quantify performance but none are standardised or accepted industry-wide. The important thing is to take any quoted figures you see with a pinch of salt and bear in mind that a variety of factors – for instance the type of face fabric or the taping pattern used - can affect the performance of individual styles.

GORE-TEX Fabric Guide

blue fabric with water droplets on and Gore-Tex logoblue fabric with water droplets on and Gore-Tex logo

GORE-TEX Pro

GORE-TEX Pro is the top-end waterproof/breathable fabric, designed for sustained use by mountaineers and those out regularly in bad conditions. The fabric features multiple layers of expanded PTFE bonded to the outer material and a gridded backing textile, but it doesn’t have an oleophobic PU layer.

The innovative construction means it offers excellent breathability, but the emphasis is still on durability for extended use. Outer fabrics must be a minimum of 40 denier, so GORE-TEX Pro garments are rugged and reliable. We stock GORE-TEX Pro garments from an impeccable range of brands including Arc’teryx, Mountain Equipment, The North Face, Patagonia and Norrøna.

In Autumn 2020, a New GORE-TEX Pro line introduced Most Rugged and Most Breathable fabrics into the range. Products that carry these labels are designed specifically for performance in the most extreme conditions. The technology results in garments that perfectly match the needs of specific end uses.

  • 3-layer laminate
  • Maximum waterproof protection
  • Tough outer fabrics designed for extended use
  • Unique backer textile slides easily over layers
  • Used by top brands offering a range of fits & features
GORETEX Pro diamondGORETEX Pro diamond

GORE-TEX Active

GORE-TEX Active is the fabric for fast and light consumers. Lamination technology integrates the backer textile directly into the waterproof membrane for a streamlined, very breathable package. Working well in lightweight alpine garments, GORE maintains a focus on minimalist designs by stipulating that pockets must not cover more than an A4-paper sized area.

  • 3 layer with integrated membrane & backer
  • The most breathable of the GORE waterproof fabrics
  • Minimalist designs keep weight down
  • Bonded backer feels nice next to skin
  • Perfect for fast and light activities
GORETEX Active diamondGORETEX Active diamond

GORE-TEX Performance

A tried-and-tested GORE-TEX membrane. It is available in either a 2-layer construction or as a 3-layer laminate, the former featuring a hanging 'drop' liner reminiscent of traditional hillwalking gear. Both versions offer the usual waterproof/breathable performance, making them well suited for cooler autumn or winter weather.

  • 3-layer laminate or 2-layer with drop liner
  • Optimal balance of waterproofness and breathability
  • Rugged construction for year-round use
  • Supple fabrics enhance comfort for a range of outdoor activities
  • Styles appeal to traditional hillwalkers who value practicality
GORETEX Performance DiamondGORETEX Performance Diamond

GORE-TEX Paclite

The fabric that does what it says on the tin; it packs down small and light. A carbon backer protects the membrane from contamination, so a full-scale lining is unnecessary - this results in a smaller pack size than most other waterproof garments. It's an excellent choice for occasional use such as trekking or travel where it may sit in a pack until the rain starts falling.

  • 2.5 or 2-layer laminate with carbon backer
  • Lightweight waterproof and breathable performance
  • Lower denier outer fabrics help reduce weight
  • Packs down small, ideal for emergency use
  • Versatile for trek and travel
GORETEX Paclite diamondGORETEX Paclite diamond

GORE-TEX Paclite Plus

GORE-TEX Paclite Plus garments utilise a 2-layer unlined construction to make them thin, lightweight and extremely packable while still being waterproof, breathable and windproof. Instead of a lining, the inner layer boasts an abrasion-resistant treatment for reliable protection. It also makes these jackets easier to slip on and off over other layers and is more comfortable to wear next to your skin for more energetic activities.

  • 2-layer laminate
  • Lightweight, breathable, yet durably waterproof
  • Inner surface with abrasion resistant treatment
  • Highly packable for easy stowing
  • Often used in hybrid designs for balance of performance and weight
GORETEX Paclite Plus diamondGORETEX Paclite Plus diamond

GORE-TEX SHAKEDRY

GORE-TEX Active with SHAKEDRY product technology is a revolutionary waterproof material that has no external face fabric. Instead, the membrane acts as the weather barrier, providing full waterproof, windproof protection. By removing the face fabric, breathability is significantly increased while weight and pack size are reduced. On the inside is an ultralight textile backer, for enhanced next-to-skin comfort. Items using SHAKEDRY product technology have been designed with high output activities in mind, making exceptional choices for trail running and fast and light hiking.

  • Eliminates the face fabric; GORE-TEX membrane is the outer surface
  • Highly hydrophobic, water simply beads and rolls off
  • Extremely light, breathable, and windproof
  • Small pack size aids transportation
  • Ideal for running and cycling
GORETEX ShakeDry DiamondGORETEX ShakeDry Diamond

GORE C-Knit Backer

GORE’s C-Knit backer technology combines the ruggedness of a 3-layer laminate with the look and feel of a soft interior fabric. The result is a waterproof material that gives outstanding comfort without compromising function or durability. With GORE C-Knit, garments are lighter, softer and even more breathable than comparable previous products, and slide easily over other layers for ultimate wearability. Ideal for outdoor enthusiasts, waterproof garments with GORE C-Knit can be used for hiking, skiing, snowboarding and more.

gore c-knit backer diagramgore c-knit backer diagram

GORE Micro Grid Backer

GORE-TEX Pro laminates benefit from the patented Micro Grid backer technology. The specially woven lining protects the membrane, improves abrasion and snag resistance on the inside and slides easily over layers, meaning you can move freely. The low denier backer is still highly breathable and robust, without adding excessive weight.

gore micro grid backer diagramgore micro grid backer diagram

The North Face FUTURELIGHT™

White fabric with water droplets and FUTURELIGHT logo in foregroundWhite fabric with water droplets and FUTURELIGHT logo in foreground

FUTURELIGHT™ utilises a production method called nanospinning, where nano-sized fibres are created. The nano-sized spaces between these fibres result in superior air permeability while maintaining excellent durability and waterproof performance.

 

The revolutionary Nanospining method allows for variable thickness within a single piece of fabric, enabling freedom of design to ensure comfortable movement and softness to touch. A lamination process attaches the nanosized fibres to face fabrics without sacrificing breathability, waterproof performance, or durability.

As a result, they have created a way to produce an innovative fabric that can be adapted to meet the needs of any outdoor enthusiast. The freedom to tailor the FUTURELIGHT™ technology as well as the face fabrics allows The North Face to create pieces that can be worn all day, comfortably.

FUTURELIGHT™ Summit Series

These garments are the pinnacle of product technology, designed to be strong, lightweight and functional enough to keep you comfortable in the most extreme mountaineering conditions.

The North Face Summit Series logoThe North Face Summit Series logo

FUTURELIGHT™ Steep Series

Designed for exploring those epic backcountry lines. Wear it while earning your turns skinning up and enjoy the ride down in complete confidence that you have excellent breathability as well as durability.

The North Face Steep Series logoThe North Face Steep Series logo

FUTURELIGHT™ Flight Series

Stripped of any excess weight that could hold you back, the FUTURELIGHT™ Flight Series has been created with minimal weight without sacrificing protection or breathability. Ideal for pushing yourself faster and lighter along the trails.

The North Face Flight Series logoThe North Face Flight Series logo

Alternative Waterproof Fabrics

*Please note this is not an exhaustive list, it simply highlights key technologies in our range.

The North Face DryVent

The North Face's own brand fabric uses a polyurethane (PU) coating that consists of a tri-component multi-layer formula for waterproof protection, moisture permeability and durability. It is applied in a thin, even layer across the back of the face fabric. Your sweat is transported across the hydrophilic PU by diffusion, moving from the warm, moist atmosphere next to your skin to the cooler, drier atmosphere outside. The front of the face fabric is treated with a Durable Water Repellent (DWR) finish; this helps water droplets to form and repels them from the surface. All DryVent clothing and accessories are fully seam-sealed for increased protection and durability.

The DryVent technology has been tested in The North Face’s Quality Assurance lab. It is measured in PSI (pound per square inch) which is the pressure resulting from a one-pound force applied to an area of one square inch.  The ratings that have resulted from this test are:

  • Breathability: 700-750g/m2/24hrs avg. (MVTR) upright cup*
  • Waterproof rating: 75 PSI avg., 75 avg. PSI after 20 launderings

*Upright Cup numbers will typically be much lower than results from other testing methods.

The minimum level of breathability achieved using DryVent: 600g/m²/24 hours on the Moisture Vapor Transfer Rate scale.

The North Face produces DryVent in 3-layer, 2.5-layer and 2-layer constructions, allowing them to maximise protection, performance, and comfort across a wide range of outdoor products.

  • 3-layer with bonded backer
    • Increased durability for harsh conditions
    • Enhanced breathability for extended wear
    • Used in TNF’s most technical clothing and accessories
  • 2.5-layer has a 'dry touch' textured print inside
    • Raises the fabric from the skin for comfort
    • Enables the quick transfer of vapour through to the outside of the fabric
    • Offers low weight and excellent performance in the lower price spectrum
  • 2-layer has a fabric drop lining
    • Comfortable next to skin
    • Adds an element of warmth
    • Offers good performance and value for the cost-conscious customer
the north face dryvent logothe north face dryvent logo

Patagonia H2No

Patagonia’s H2No fabrics are waterproof, breathable, and durable. Once a fabric has passed Patagonia’s rigorous tests, it achieves their H2No Performance Standard status.

They test a fabric’s waterproofness in three ways: simulating light rain, then prolonged rain, and finally forcing water through the face of a fabric. They test breathability by measuring a fabric’s Moisture Vapor Transmission Rate (MVTR). For durability, all H2No fabrics undergo the 'Killer Wash', a proprietary wet flex and abrasion test which simulates a lifetime of use and abuse. Their Performance Standard dictates that fabrics must have a hydrostatic head of 20,000mm before and 10,000mm after the Killer Wash (though many specific H2No fabrics will exceed these figures). The standard applies from their top-end mountaineering shells down to their classic rain jackets made with everyday use in mind.

  • 3-layer, 2.5-layer, or 2-layer
  • Bonded backer or drop liner depending on product
  • H2No Performance Standard test guarantees quality
  • Top-end mountain clothing offers durability and performance
  • Popular rainwear pieces are light and packable
Patagonia H2No FabricPatagonia H2No Fabric

Pertex Shield

Pertex produces two versions of their waterproof fabric: Pertex Shield Pro and Pertex Shield. Both use a PU film coating to provide lightweight waterproof protection while remaining highly breathable. A Durable Water Repellent treatment on the face fabric sheds rain and snow, which also helps to maintain breathability. 

Pertex Shield Pro is made for extended use in testing conditions. It uses a microporous membrane that has been engineered with a very high number of evenly spaced and interconnected pores. These pores allow any moisture vapour generated to pass through the fabric, minimising any sweat build-up and keeping you comfortable for longer.

  • 3-layer laminate
  • Waterproof and windproof
  • Highly breathable
  • Tough and durable construction
  • Prolonged protection from the elements
pertex shield pro logopertex shield pro logo

Pertex Shield provides lightweight waterproof protection while remaining breathable. Designed for intense mountain pursuits where weight and breathability are key, Pertex Shield fabrics allow you to move fast and stay comfortable.

  • 3-layer, 2.5-layer, or 2-layer
  • Waterproof and windproof
  • Optimal breathability
  • Lightweight face fabrics
  • Soft, supple, and packable
pertex shield logopertex shield logo

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Waterproof Trousers

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