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The new ski season means so many exciting possibilities – and we’ve got the equipment to help you make them reality!
Designers working with shape, camber and flex, are producing skis that perform better and are more fun to ski than ever before! Skis are more versatile and even easier to use – from all-mountain all-rounders like the Movement Jam to super-accessible fat skis such as Volkl’s Gotama. We’re also introducing Moment Skis to the UK, one of the most forward thinking and talked about ski companies in the U.S.A. But our range isn’t just about wider skis, it’s about offering the best at every level, from beginner to expert, male and female, piste, all-mountain, freeride and freestyle. There’s something for everyone.

Boots too have improved from last season, with Salomon introducing the Custom Shell programme into the best selling Impact range, and Atomic adding innovative liners. Fischer and Lange have new models, Nordica and Head have upgraded current favourites. And Full Tilt… well, turn to page 196. Obviously great boots are no good without a great fit and that’s why we ensure our boot-fitters are amongst the best in the country: passionate, dedicated and knowledgeable, they will pick exactly the right product to improve your skiing comfort and performance.

The pound may have plummeted against other currencies but we’ve worked hard with all our suppliers to ensure that the UK is still the place to buy equipment. At Ellis Brigham we have some of the most competitive ski and boot prices in Europe (check it for yourself – just don’t tell the resort shops!), a comprehensive staff training programme and we’re always here for advice, service and after-sales.

Now really is the time to buy ski equipment – design advances mean that product is better than ever before and the UK will be one of the cheapest places to buy in Europe. So come into one of our stores, chat to the friendly staff, browse the impressive selections and grab yourself some new kit! We’re looking forward to seeing you.

2009/ 2010 Ellis Brigham Staffs Ski Test Reports NOW HERE

Buying Skis
With hire fees increasing even though the equipment is often still poor, and the problems of adjusting to new unfamiliar set-ups, it is time to take advantage of the amazing value for money now available through all levels of modern skis. It’s the best way to make sure you have the right tool for the skiing you want to do, and you’ll maximise your performance as you use a ski tuned to your ability and style.

The following is designed to help you choose your perfect set of skis – often a daunting task but don’t worry, we have deliberately de-mystified all the jargon and made simple all the facts (and you can ski them on snow before you part with the cash: see our Try-Before-You-Buy page). This is your guide to explaining the icons, graphics and technical information you will find used throughout our ski section..

Skier Ability
So often in life to get the best you have to pay the most but this really isn’t the case with skis. Expert level skis are expensive but are actually only suitable for experts – unless you are on top of your game 100% of the time and want a demanding highly tuned performer, don’t go near these babies. If you are an intermediate, buy an intermediate ski, they are not low tech punter skis but use many of the high-end expert components tuned specifically to delight the intermediate skier. You will ski better on it, enjoy yourself more and also save a bundle of money you can put towards an extra weekend on snow. Be honest with yourself and with our ski technicians, this way you can be sure to get the right equipment. Think about your current ability and your aspirations, and also where you are going to use the ski.

Jargon Buster
Radius
The phrase “radius” used in this catalogue/website refers to a ski’s sidecut radius and can be thought of as the ‘natural’ turn size of that ski. Assuming that due to its curve, the edge of a ski could be one part of a circle, then the sidecut radius would be the radius of that circle. These figures are given in metres. Factors that will affect the sidecut radius are the ski’s length and sidecut depth. The phrase turn radius is slightly different as turn radius is variable and depends on the person using the ski - applying more reverse camber or bend will create a smaller turn radius.
Typically, skis designed for on-piste skiing will have a short radius of 10 to 18m so they will initiate a turn and carve easily, whilst skis designed for maximum off-piste use will have a 25m+ radius. Freeride skis are somewhere in between as they need to function both on and off piste. New for this season are the all terrain hybrid skis such as the Atomic Metrons and Salomon Scramblers that have a small radius but can still be used off piste due to their wide waist.

Sidecut/Shape
The phrase ‘sidecut’ used in the catalogue refers to the ski’s dimensions at the widest points of the tip and tail, and at the waist. Measured in millimetres, sidecut is shown in the order: tip/waist/tail. A deep sidecut will create a ski with a small radius. This will generally apply to a piste-orientated ski as it will carve turns easily. A good example of this would be the Fischer Progressor 8+. Skis with shallow sidecuts, such as the Volkl Mantra, will have a much larger radius suiting deeper snow as turns are less likely to be carved. Furthermore, skis with more shape would potentially be trickier in cut-up conditions.
As well as the actual depth of sidecut, or ‘amount of shape’, the combination of the tip, tail and waist widths will also affect how the ski reacts.
Waist - A wide waist found on freeride and freestyle backcountry skis will offer lots of floatation and stability so you can cruise through deep snow, but on groomers they will feel slightly sluggish as they are slow to change edges. Narrow waists feel very quick from edge to edge when on pisted trails but will not float so well off-piste. Typical sizes at the waist are 62-74mm for piste-skis, 74-89mm for all-terrain, 89-100mm for freeride. Anything bigger than that is for the deep stuff, baby.
Tail - Tail widths affect the feel of carving at the end of a turn. Skis with big tails relative to the waist, like the Head iSupershape Magnum will ‘hold’ at the end of a turn locking you into the carve and minimising loss of momentum. Skis such as the Dynastar Exclusive Sensation have a narrower tail making them easier to skid and more controllable.
Tip - A wide tip and narrow waist give excellent turn initiation as the ski will roll smoothly into a carve. This is especially noticeable on the Dynastar Exclusive Fluid.

There are many differences in the sidecuts and shapes that will create certain types of skis and it is worth noting the dimensions as you compare models.

Selecting the correct size of ski
The size of the ski you need is dependent on a combination of factors.

Weight:Your weight is more important than your height when choosing the right size of ski. Heavier skiers need bigger (or stiffer) skis so there is more stability and surface area; lighter skiers should think about shorter lengths as they may have less power to flex (or bend) the ski. Imagine a ski being an extension of your foot. If the ski is too short/soft, all the body weight is concentrated under the binding area, making the tip and tail light and prone to uncontrollable skidding. If it’s too long/stiff, the opposite happens and the ski is mainly weighted at tip and tail. This makes it hard to initiate the turn and release your edges, giving the ski a twitchy feel. Choosing the correct length-to-weight ratio will allow even weighting of the ski along its entire length. The end result will be a balance of performance, control and ease of use.

Ability/Aggressiveness:The longer the ski, the more edge there is for extra grip and the more base for stability. Cautious skiers should think about down-sizing as they do not need the stability at speed, but would benefit from extra manoeuvrability of a smaller ski.

Intended Use - The intended use has an important influence on the size. The following recommendations are assuming height and weight are roughly in proportion (again, be honest!).
Piste Use - chin-height to eye-level, for easy carving and responsiveness. Longer for extra stability and wider, bigger turns.
All Mountain - nose-level to forehead, can also depend on the width of ski chosen.
Freeride - eye-level to top of the head-height. Go ‘as big as you can handle’ for maximum floatation.
Freestyle - ski it eye-level for the maximum ease of spinning and rail tricks, go bigger for all mountain versatility.
Park - ski it eye-level for maximum ease of spinning and rail tricks but go bigger if you want the very best stability for landing and jumping.
Freestyle Backcountry - forehead to way above head height! Go big or go home!

Ski Shape There are many new shapes and concepts in modern ski design such as ‘early taper’ and ‘rocker’. These new technologies aim to give a large, easy-to-use surface area when skiing in soft snow, resulting in the best floatation and increased manoeuvrability. In firm conditions the amount of ski/edge in contact is reduced, improving the handling. Many skis designed for soft snow can be skied at what seems to be a long length, without any affect on their all-round performance.

Stiffness The final important factor in deciding the correct size is stiffness of the ski, both tip-to-tail and torsional. A ski that is stiff lengthwise is harder to bend, making it more difficult to carve but stable at speed. Softer-flexing skis will nurture confidence and improvements in technique, because they require less energy and/or skill. A torsionally stiff ski is more resistant to twisting forces when on its edge, therefore, will offer greater edge grip. A torsionally softer ski will not have the same grip but it will be easier to control at slower speeds.
Please speak to our staff for further help on ski stiffness.

The size of your previous skis may also be a factor that should be considered. For further help on sizing speak to our staff who can give you detailed advice.

Ellis Brigham Staffs Ski Test Reports HERE