BOOT & CRAMPON COMPATIBILITY
When snow covers the summits, a hill walk or scramble can be transformed into a full-on mountaineering route. It is essential to use the right combination of boot and crampon to cope with these serious conditions and keep you safe on ice and snow. Crampon incompatibility can be very dangerous!
There is a bewildering variety of different models of boot and crampon on the market. However, a simple Rating system can be used to navigate through the many possibilities. The B/C Rating system was created by Mountain Guide Brian Hall on behalf of Scarpa. It provides guidelines that can be used to supplement (not replace) good advice from experienced shop staff or mountaineers. It is vital to take expert advice before kicking your first step in snow.
CRAMPONS - click here for all our crampons
Crampons are made for different purposes - walking, mountaineering and
ice climbing and need to be compatible with the boots they are fitted
to so they work in harmony. Even relatively stiff boots can flex and the
crampon has to be able to flex and twist to stay safely on the boot. Crampons
have two components which define their use and hence their grade. The
metal spiked base, which can be hinged (articulated) or rigid depending
on model and the strapping or binding system which secures them to the
boot.
Crampons consist of two distinctly separate sections – the spiked base and the binding. The C rating actually relates most directly to the binding rather than the ‘spikes’. It is an indication of what boot a crampon binding will fit, regardless of the crampon’s spike configuration.
Often a particular type of ‘base’ is available with a variety of different binding systems. For instance, the Grivel G12 is available with either a New Matic (C2) or Cramp-o-Matic (C3) binding. This means you really need to consider two types of compatibility:
Get the right answer to these two questions and you will have the perfect crampon for you and your boots.
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C1 crampons have a tape tether that pulls flexible cradles around the heel and toe to create a secure binding. This system allows good flex and is suitable for fitting to B1, B2 or B3 boots. It is usually found on low profile 10 point crampons with less aggressive points. They are ideal for winter walking or glacier traverses. |
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C2 crampons use a plastic heel lever and a flexible toe cradle. This system will give a secure binding to B2 or B3 boots. Crampons tend to be mid-profile with longer secondary spikes and sharper front points. These are the 12 point all-rounders that are easy enough to walk in but still climb hard when called on. Excellent for winter climbing and alpinism. |
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C3 crampons combine a plastic heel lever and metal toe bar. This system gives a really solid fit but will only work with full B3 boots. Usually a C3 binding is found on bigger, badder 12 or 14 point crampons that offer precise performance on steep ice or highly technical mixed routes. Very aggressive vertical front points give the best penetration on hard ice. Top-end crampons for top-end boots. |
BOOTS - B ratings are a widely recognised indication of a boot’s suitability for different winter mountain activities.
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B0 boots are flexible in the soles and uppers, making them comfortable straight from the box and great for general hill walking below the snow line. Even with modern flexible linking bars, crampons will not be able to flex as much as these boots. This flexing disparity places undue pressure through the binding and can cause your crampon to pull loose with potentially disastrous results. You may also find that crampon straps dig in through the softer upper fabrics leading to significant discomfort. So for reasons of comfort and safety, B0s should be avoided for use on snow. |
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All round four season walking boots, robustly constructed for long mountain days and scrambles and with cross-over potential for those looking to do a small amount of winter hill walking. The midsole is stiffened while uppers may be leather or fabric, often supported by a generous rubber rand or synthetic leather reinforcements. Combine only with C1 strap-on crampons which offer the best flex. A B1/C1 combination will be adequate for many UK winter fell walks and gentle snow plods. |
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The best bet for regular winter hill walkers tackling long days in snowy conditions. Both midsoles and uppers will be stiff and supportive, but with just enough flex to sustain a regular walking action. Thicker uppers lend slightly more warmth. There will be a heel ledge to allow fitting of a C2 crampon for the most secure fit and versatile performance. Suitable for the winter Munro bagger, the low or mid grade Scottish Winter climber and the summer Alpinist. |
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Designed for full-on mountaineering, mixed and ice climbing. B3s have the stiffest soles and uppers available, giving solid lateral and medial support for front pointing, step-kicking and traversing on steep terrain. This category includes high altitude double boots as well as lighter technical climbing models. Heel and toe ledges allow fitting of C3 crampons to take advantage of the easy attachment system of heel clip and toe bar. |

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